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香醋与传统香醋

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专家建议

　香醋与传统香醋

Laura Dallagiovanna, Valeria Mazzoleni
Istituto di Enologia e Ingegneria alimentare
Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore
29100 – Piacenza (Italia)
E. mail: valeria.mazzoleni@unicatt.it

香醋和传统香醋是意大利Modena 和Reggio Emilia省的经典产品（图1）。尽管这两种产品的名字非常相近，但它们无论是生产工艺还是产品声望都明显不同。

工业化生产的香醋在过去10年中市场范围越来越大，目前在市场上它以‘Modena香醋’的品名进行销售，但这个名称只能用到2005年，此后需要进行品名更改，以避免在香醋和传统香醋两种产品之间可能产生的混淆。

传统香醋有两种：Modena传统香醋和Reggio Emilia传统香醋，两者都是声望卓著的产品，它们严格按照非常古老的工艺进行生产，在狭小的原产区之外很难寻觅它们的身影。有关传统香醋的历史记载可以一直追溯到中世纪。

香醋和传统香醋的管理法规

按照1965年的一项法律，香醋属于特种醋范畴，这项法律规定醋产品可以具有‘…特定的资格名称… 按照特定的工艺制作，如Modena香醋及类似产品。’

传统香醋尽管在名称中含有‘醋’字，但由于它与醋之间存在一些显著的不同特点，如其原料不是酒精，而是糖类（经烹煮的葡萄汁），历史上被归入色拉调料的范畴，。

八十年代末，Modena传统香醋、Reggio Emilia传统香醋和Modena香醋都曾被认定为AOC产品（政府法令09/02/1987、3/3/1987 和15/11/1989）。

通过欧共体17/04/2000规则的设定，Modena传统香醋和Reggio Emilia传统香醋具有原产地名称保护（POD）。而政府法令16/11/2000判决废除Modena香醋的AOC等级。为了去除可能的混淆，Modena香醋将只能在2005年以前在市场上使用这个名称，也就是说在Modena传统香醋获得原产地名称保护法律通过后的5年之后Modena香醋必须更名。

按照目前的法规，香醋和传统香醋有以下显著差别：

◆ 原料 － 传统香醋只使用经烹煮的葡萄汁，而香醋使用浓缩葡萄汁、经烹煮的葡萄汁和醋；

◆ 生产方式；

◆ 陈酿时间 － 传统香醋必须至少陈酿12年，而对香醋的陈酿年限没有规定；

意大利法规（DM 3.12.1965）对香醋的化学和物理特征规定如下：

◇ 深褐色，酸甜风味，具宜人的芬芳和特征性气味；

◇ 还原性提取物不少于30克/升。

对其它特征（如总酸度、酒精残量、灰份和金属含量等），香醋需要达到葡萄醋的相关要求。

对于传统香醋的特征，需要参照其产品条例，焦点主要集中在产品的感官特征上：

◇ 外观为滑润光泽的深褐色；

◇ 具有顺滑流畅的口感；

◇ 蕴含复杂而清晰的香气，同时具有平衡的酸度；

◇ 风味酸甜，和谐、灵动、浓郁。

此外，Reggio Emilia传统香醋的律条规定总酸度不能低于5克醋酸/100毫升，其比重必须不低于1,2克/升。 表1例举了香醋和传统香醋的主要特征。

Modena香醋的生产技术

Modena香醋通过混合三种成份获得：浓缩或经烹煮的葡萄汁、葡萄醋和焦糖。

◆ 浓缩或经烹煮的葡萄汁的生产

来自经破碎的成熟健康果实的葡萄汁，在低温下进行过滤和贮藏，以免发生酒精发酵。然后葡萄汁在负压下浓缩或者在明火上烹煮，直到其体积达到原初体积的三分之一。

◆ 葡萄醋的生产

葡萄醋来源于一个缓慢的酸化方法，它可以确保获得优质产品。

◆ 焦糖的生产

焦糖是一种褐色的物质，通过对固态的葡萄糖、蔗糖或糖蜜在大约200°C下进行热降解而得，在这个过程中可以加入少量的碱。欧洲所有国家都允许在食品中使用焦糖作为调色剂。

◆ 混合与成熟

经浓缩或烹煮的葡萄汁、葡萄醋以及焦糖在带有内置式混合器的不锈钢罐中进行充分混合，循环泵确保了混合物的均一性。葡萄汁和醋的比例在不同的生产商那里稍有不同，但基本遵循以下比例：

◇ 标准香醋：20％的浓缩葡萄汁，80％的葡萄醋。

◇ 上等香醋：2％经烹煮的葡萄汁，34％的浓缩葡萄汁，64％的葡萄醋。

◇ 珍酿香醋：8％经烹煮的葡萄汁，32％的浓缩葡萄汁，60％的葡萄醋。

经烹煮的葡萄汁提高了产品品质，使香醋的感官品质更接近于传统香醋。

对于焦糖，不同的生产商依照自己的感觉进行添加，但由于焦糖会带来一种不宜人的苦味，添加量不能过高。

混合后的产品在木桶中经历一个成熟过程，这个阶段通常在2个星期（标准产品）到3年（珍酿类产品）之间。桶用木材为橡木或栗木，两者都是香醋产区的典型树种。顶级质量的香醋在小桶（容量2百升hl）中进行成熟。

成熟是一个氧化过程：木材未经处理，所以仍然具有对氧气的通透性；木桶堆放在干燥、通风并有良好光照的顶楼上。香醋的成熟条件与传统香醋在整个生产过程所采用的条件相似。

传统香醋的生产 （图2）

◆ 葡萄的选择

传统上使用本地出产的白葡萄品种，特别是在丘陵地区生长的棠比内洛（Trebbiano）葡萄，这种葡萄最重要也是最受欢迎的特征是具有很高的糖含量和香气物质。今天，由于这个品种濒临消失，人们也采用其它品种的葡萄，如：莱布鲁斯科（Lambrusco）、波赞米诺（Berzemino）、斯博格拉（Spergola）和奥琪迪格塔（Occhio di Gatta），但原料也仅限于Modena和Reggio Emilia省的出产。

◆ 制备经烹煮的葡萄汁（图2）

葡萄经破碎后，将不带果梗和果皮的葡萄汁置于敞开的容器中用明火烹煮。这个过程造成体积浓缩，平均浓缩50％。经烹煮过的葡萄汁是转化的理想基质，这个转化过程要历经多年才能完成。

◆ 发酵、成熟和陈酿

葡萄汁经过冷凉处理后篦入坛子中，加入一种天然酒母，其中同时含有耐高渗透势的酵母和醋酸菌，随之开始进行非常缓慢的酒精发酵和醋酸发酵。

此后产品转入小木桶中，它既允许少量氧气的通过，又能使木头中的芳香物质释放到醋中。

木桶堆放成一种称为‘电池’的生产单元（图2）。每组‘电池’由一定数量（不少于3）的木桶组成，这些木桶的规格依次递减，所用的木材也不相同（如：橡木、栗木、樱桃木、岑木、桑木）。电池中不同木桶的堆放序列是按木材对氧气的通透性递增排列的。在第一层的木桶中进行酒精和醋酸发酵，在中层的木桶中进行成熟，在最后的木桶中进行陈酿。

操作开始时是从最小的桶中取出少量的终产品（很少的几升），然后从较大的木桶中向较小的木桶中转入一定量的产品，通过这种方法可以克服自然浓缩所带来的损失。最后向最大的桶中添入经烹煮的葡萄汁。

篦滤操作每年进行一次，一般在冬季到来之前，直到每个容器都达到四分之三满。

在发酵过程中形成了多种次级产物，它们会显著影响醋的风味。在成熟和陈酿过程中，不断发生酶学和化学反应，改善着不同的香气成份之间的关系，并提高传统香醋的总体口感和气味。

此外，层层堆置的木桶存放于顶楼，那里通风良好，阳光充足，温度也随季节而变化。

Modena香醋的市场

Modena香醋的流行开始于25年前，紧随‘意大利制造’在世界范围内威望的建立。进入国际市场的过程开始时非常缓慢，从餐馆到熟食店，最后进入大型的组织化分销系统（LOD）。今天，Modena香醋在世界醋类市场上确立了自己的地位，出现在36个国家的货架上：从美洲到大洋州，从亚洲到欧洲。

市场的开拓首先在美国实现，目前它也是Modena香醋市场扩大最快的国家，其次是德国、瑞士、法国、日本和澳大利亚的市场。未来最有潜力的市场是日本，其年增长量达到约20％，此外还有英国和瑞典。

Modena香醋在盎格鲁－撒克逊国家的成功可能是因为这些国家喜欢甜酸的风味，另一个原因是这些国家的大型组织化分销系统更为完善，从而促进了销售。而在地中海国家，人们更喜欢较为清爽的风味，他们所喜爱的色拉调料是橄榄油加葡萄醋，所以香醋的应用范围要小一些。

在意大利，醋的年消费总量中只有5％是Modena 香醋。这意味着我们所面对的是一种小宗商品，它主要用于替代葡萄醋。目前Modena 香醋的年产量达到2千3百万升，其中16％用于国内消费。过去数年中Modena香醋的销售表现出明显的增长（1998年增长了大约30％），由于这个原因，食品公司开始生产香醋，一些连锁超市也创出了自有的香醋品牌。

目前，生产者还开发出了一些新产品，如生物香醋，其销售目的地是对生物环保类产品知晓度较高的国家（如：德国），而犹太香醋，则致力于销往以色列市场，此外还生产出用香醋泡制的腌菜。

对于传统香醋还没有生产和销售的相关数据，但其总产量很少。比如，在Modena省有大约100个生产商，只出产几千桶的Modena传统香醋。2001年他们销售了800桶，每桶容量为100千升。

译：马会勤，桂儒礼

图1：香醋和传统香醋产区——Modena省和Reggio Emilia省

Figure 1 – The provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia are the areas of production of Balsamic Vinegar and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.

图2：从葡萄到传统香醋的生产过程

Figure 2 – Production   of BTV from grape to finished product.

表1：香醋和传统香醋的主要特征

Table 1 – Main characters of TBV and BV, according to the scientific literature.

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Balsamic Vinegar and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar

Laura Dallagiovanna, Valeria Mazzoleni

Istituto di Enologia e Ingegneria alimentare

Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore

29100 – Piacenza (Italia)

E. mail: valeria.mazzoleni@unicatt.it

Balsamic Vinegar (BV) and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (TBV) are typical Italian  products from the  provinces of Modena and Reggio  Emilia (Figure 1). Despite the fact that both products have very similar names, they are actually different as far as production technology and prestige are concerned.

BV,  which is industrially produced and has become more and more widely sold over the last ten years,  is on the market by the name of “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena”. This name can be used until 2005, after which it will need to be changed to avoid any possible confusion between the two types (BV and TBV). 

As far as TBV is concerned, there are two kinds: TBV of Modena and TBV of Reggio Emilia, both extremely prestigious products, obtained from very old artisan methods and very difficult to find outside the small area of origin. Historical documentation regarding  TBV dates back to the Middle Ages.

Regulations about BV and TBV

 BV comes into the category of  special vinegars, on the basis of a law of 1965, which alowed the production of vinegar having: “… specific qualifying names … prepared with particular techniques  as the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and the likes”.  

 TBV, even though it contains the word “vinegar” in its name, really for traditional reasons, comes into the category of dressings, due to singular characteristics that differentiate it from  vinegar - such as the fact that  its  raw material is not alcoholic but sugar based ( cooked grape must). 

At the end of the 80’s,   TBV of Modena,  TBV of Reggio Emilia and  BV of Modena   were all recognised as AOC products (Ministerial Decree   09/02/1987,  3/3/1987 and 15/11/1989, respectively).

 TBV of Modena and  TBV of Reggio Emilia  beared the POD (Protected Origin Designation), through the enactment of EC regulation of 17/04/2000. The Ministerial Decree of 16/11/2000 brought about annulment of the AOC status for  BV of Modena. To relieve the consumer from confusion,  BV of Modena will only be able to be on the market under this designation until 2005, that is to say 5 years from the enactment of the regulation that acknowledges  TBV of Modena as a POD product.

On the basis of current regulations, there are notable differences between  BV and  TBV as far as regards:

◆ Raw materials -  only cooked musts for traditional balsamic, concentrated and/or cooked musts and vinegar for balsamic;

◆ Production methods;

◆ Aging time -  TBV must be aged for at least 12 years. No reference period  is indicated for  BV.

The chemical and physical  characteristics of  BV  indicated  by the Italian regulations (DM  3.12.1965)  are:

◇ Dark brown colour, sweet sour flavour, pleasant aromatic and characteristic smell;

◇ Reduced extract not inferior to 30 g / L.

As far as other characteristics are concerned (for example total acidity, residual alcohol, ashes and metals), the  BV needs to meet up to the requirements   regarding wine vinegars.

For the characteristics of  TBV, it is necessary to refer to the production disciplinary, which focus attention on the  sensory characters of the product:

◇ glossy dark brown colour;

◇ smooth, flowing syrupiness;

◇ complex and penetrating bouquet, with balanced acidity;

◇ sweet and sour flavour, harmonic, sapid, and  intense.

 In addition, in the  TBV of Reggio Emilia production disciplinary  it is stated that the   total acidity must not be inferior to 5 g acetic acid/100mL and the specific gravity must not be inferior to 1,2 g/L.

In Table 1 the main characters of BV and TBV  are shown.

Production Technique of  BV of Modena

BV of Modena is obtained by mixing three   ingredients: concentrated/cooked must, wine vinegar and caramel.

◆ Concentrated/cooked must production

The must, obtained from  the chrusing of ripe and sound grapes, is filtered and stored at low temperature to  avoid alcoholic fermentation. The must is then concentrated under  reduced pressure or cooked over direct flame  until it  reaches 1/3 of its initial  volume.

◆ Wine vinegar production

The wine vinegar   is obtained  from  slow acetification   method   which consents   to obtain a  quality product.

◆ Caramel production

The caramel is a  brown substance which is obtained by  thermic degradation at about 200°C  of solid glucose, or sucrose or molasses, to which small quantities of alkali can be added. The use of caramel  in foods as a colouring agent is consented in all European countries.

◆ Mixing and  maturing

Concentrated/cooked must, wine vinegar and caramel are well mixed in stainless steel tanks fitted internally with a mixer; a recyrculating pump guarantees the mass homogeneity. The ratio must/vinegar   can vary from producer to producer, but on the whole can be quantified as follows:

◇ Standard  BV: 20 % concentrated must, 80 % wine vinegar.

◇ Extra BV: 2% cooked must, 34 % concentrated must, 64 % wine vinegar.

◇ Reserve BV: 8 % cooked must, 32 % concentrated must, 60 % wine vinegar.

The cooked must improves the   quality of the product in that the sensory characters of the  BV become more similar to those of TBV.

As far as the caramel is concerned, each producer uses as much as they feel necessary,  but the doses   cannot be too high as the caramel can give  an unpleasant bitter taste.

After mixing, the product undergoes a maturation process in wooden casks,  generally   from two months (standard product) to three years (reserve product).  The wood used is oak or chestnut, which is  characteristic of the production area  of BV.  Top quality BV is matured in small casks (2 hl).

Maturation is an oxydative process: the wood is not treated so that it  remains permeable to the oxygen; casks  are stored in dry, ventilated and sunny attics. The maturation conditions of BV are close to the conditions adopted during the whole production of TBV.

Production Technique of  TBV  (Figure 2)

◆ Choice of grapes

 Traditionally local white grapes were used, in particular Trebbiano cultivated in the hills,  whose most important and appreciated characteristics  were high sugar content and  high  level of aromatic compounds. Today, owing to the fact that this variety has just about disappeared, other  varieties of grapes are used, albeit exclusively from the  provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia, such as Lambrusco,  Berzemino, Spergola and Occhio di Gatta.

◆ Preparation of the cooked must (Figure 2)

The grapes are crushed  and the must, without stems and skins, is  cooked in open vessels over a direct flame. This treatment    causes a concentration of the volume, which on average is 50 %. The cooked must is an ideal  medium for the transformations that will take place throughout the course of the long years.

◆ Fermentation, maturing and aging

The must is cooled down and decanted into demijohns where alcoholic and acetic fermentation begins very slowly,   by  means of a natural starter containing both osmophilic yeasts and acetic acid bacteria.

Afterwards the product is transferred to   small casks  of wood, allowing  the passage of oxygen, and also consenting the aromatic substances of wood to be released into the vinegar.

The casks are grouped into a production unit known as “battery” (Figure 2).  Each battery is made up of a certain number (not less than three ) of  casks of decreasing size and different kinds of wood (e.g oak, chestnut, cherry, ash, mulberry). The sequence of the casks in the battery goes in increasing order of  oxygen permeability of the wood. In the first casks we have alcoholic and acetic fermentation; in the middles ones, maturation and in the last ones, aging.

The  operations start by  taking a small quantity of finished product  (a few liters) from the smallest  cask and consist of transferring a determined  amount of  product from the larger vessel to the next smaller one;  in this way we overcome loss due to spontaneous concentration. The first largest barrel is added of cooked must. 

Decanting is carried out  once a year, generally at the oncoming of winter, until each recipient is three-quarters full.

During the fermentation process numerous secondary products are formed   that notably influence the flavour of the vinegar.  During  maturation and aging, both enzymatic and  chemical reactions develop, which modify the relationship between the